Shiseido Company, Limited has gained understanding of the mechanism in which capillaries contribute to skin elasticity, and identified that neem leaf extract and Houttuynia cordata extract work effectively for maintaining thick (large diameter) and stable capillaries, which can become thinner and regress due to aging and ultraviolet rays.
Studies to Understand the Mechanism
Softness Sensor Controls the Thickness of Capillaries The previous studies conducted by Shiseido have revealed that maintaining healthy capillaries is important for skin elasticity, therefore the company conducted an ongoing investigation of the mechanism that makes capillaries thicker and stronger to revive skin’s resilience. In this study, the researchers discovered that APJ which is a molecule expressed in capillaries, acts as a “softness sensor” that senses elasticity of the surrounding skin area and controls the thickness of the capillaries. In an experiment using skin models with various elasticity levels, it was confirmed that an adequate elasticity environment upregulated APJ expression and induced thicker capillaries. On the other hand, in a low elasticity environment, APJ expression level was decreased and unstable thin capillaries were induced. Therefore, Shiseido researchers experimentally increased the APJ expression level, and as a result, succeeded in inducing thicker capillaries even in skin model with low elasticity.
VE-cadherin Strengthens Blood Vessels in Capillaries
In the downstream of APJ, which senses elasticity and leads to thick capillaries, a molecule called VE-cadherin strengthens blood vessels by promoting the adhesion between vascular endothelial cells. In this study, it was revealed that capillaries with low VE-cadherin level become thinner and regressed. In the experiment using skin models, it was found that skin elasticity was reduced under the condition with decreased VE-cadherin in capillaries. The company believes that maintaining thick and strong capillaries can improve skin elasticity, leading to the creation of resilient skin.
Aging and UV Rays Reduce Skin Elasticity
Aging and UV-induced damage are one of the factors to reduce skin elasticity and the expression of softness sensor APJ, and it is known that both the factors also cause the VE-cadherin dysfunction. The researchers conducted a screening of ingredients that strengthen capillaries and found out that neem leaf extract increased APJ expression, and Houttuynia cordata extract promoted VE-cadherin production. The action of these ingredients can be expected to create thick and strong capillaries, and to revive skin resilience from the inside. Shiseido will pursue the development of new skincare products that prevent skin troubles caused by decrease of skin elasticity, such as wrinkles and sagging, and create resilient skin through utilizing these findings and providing care for capillaries.
cosmetics.specialchem.com, 28 May 2020